The Artists of the Dead (39)

The Portentous Life of Death

by Joaquin de Bolaños 1792

Death is unbridled, but in order to sweeten her memory, I present her gilded or disguised with a touch of jest, novelty, or grace…for I wish to amuse you with a little bit of mysticism, for I seek to undeceive you; separate the gold from the dross, profit from what is serious, laugh at what is ridiculous.

Written in Mexico at the end of the eighteenth century by Fr. Joaquín Bolaños, La portentosa vida de la muerte chronicles the exploits of Death as a female figure She frequently interacts with sinners, and even directly intercedes with God.*

In Spanish the word "muerte" (death in English) is a female noun, so it is common in Spanish-speaking countries for death to be personified as female figures.

* Constructing the Liminal: La Portentosa Vida de la Muerte by Katlyn Rochelle Smith, 2016

Illustrations by Francisco Agüera Bustamante

Illustrations by Francisco Agüera Bustamante

La alegoria de la muerte, 1856 by Tomas Mondragón

The imagery at the top of the painting gives the work a hierophantic meaning. It is a hand, "the hand of God", dimmed by a supernatural light that explodes from inside a cluster of clouds and packed with scissors, cut, according to the Christian tradition, the fine thread of life. This "divine" thread is what It divides the two sectors, that of life and that of death.*

*Allegory of death. Contents iconographic, symbolic and expressive pre-Columbian and Western matrix by Graciela Dragoski

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José Guadalupe Posada

During the tumultuous years leading up to the Mexican Revolution of 1910, Posada relentlessly commented on the leading political and social issues of his day, satirizing everyone and anything. The most recurrent theme in his prints, the calavera (skull), was probably invented by his contemporary Manuel Manilla, but Posada popularized it as a national icon.*

Despite his current fame as a graphic artist, during his lifetime Posada’s artistic reputation was slight. Academic artists and art critics steeped in European traditions and techniques considered his prints—most produced for penny broadsides and popular newspapers—to be crude, ephemeral, and even scandalous.**

In 1920, Posada was rediscovered by a French artist, Jean Charlot, who brought his work to the attention of renowned muralists Diego Rivera and Jose Clemente Orozco.**

*Publication excerpt from an essay by Harper Montgomery, in Deborah Wye, Artists and Prints: Masterworks from The Museum of Modern Art, New York: The Museum of Modern Art, 2004, p. 124.

**Mexico: An Encyclopedia of Contemporary Culture and History

Posada Surrounded by His Admirers (Calaveras of Rivera, Orozco, Mendez, and Dr. Atl aka Gerardo Murillo) by Alfredo Zalce 1948, Linocut from the book Mexico and Modern Printmaking, The Revolution in the Graphic Arts, 1920 to 1950

Posada Surrounded by His Admirers (Calaveras of Rivera, Orozco, Mendez, and Dr. Atl aka Gerardo Murillo) by Alfredo Zalce 1948, Linocut from the book Mexico and Modern Printmaking, The Revolution in the Graphic Arts, 1920 to 1950

Posada’s lithographs and wood-cuts… tap sources that are typically Mexican, for both the Indian heritage (skulls and death -goddesses are common in pre-Columbian art) and the Spanish heritage (the death-orientation of the monastic orders, and the dance-of-death and memento mori traditions) have blended in the average Mexican’s stoic, but far from humorless, view of death.*

Remembered almost exclusively for his Calavera Catrina, a skull wearing an ostentatious European hat, Posada produced hundreds of images on a broad range of daily news events and political satire with portrayals of not a few firing squads and lurid images of suicides. But Posada could charm and beguile as well, his artistic legacy extends to illustrations for children’s books as well.

If there are no small ironies in life and death, it is interesting to note that Posada benefited little in his lifetime from his Calaveras. The worldwide appreciation of the mute mocking laughter and biting satire of his images after his own death is a joke only a cynical Catrina would relish. Posada died penniless and was buried in a paupers grave.

*Posada’s Popular Mexican Prints, selected and edited by Roberto Berdecio and Stanley Applebaum

Image from Posada: A Century of Skeletons by Juan Villoro (Author), Mercurio López (Author), Montserrat Gali (Author), Helia Bonilla (Editor)

Image from Posada: A Century of Skeletons by Juan Villoro (Author), Mercurio López (Author), Montserrat Gali (Author), Helia Bonilla (Editor)

The broadside, the popular form in which Posada’s work is best documented and remembered, is a type of ephemeral street literature that first emerged in sixteenth-century Europe following the invention of the printing press in the previous century. The broadside, in a form similar to the commonly seen in Mexico, flourished in England and France from the 1820s, until the early twentieth century. Combining bold headlines, illustrations, and text, it featured scandals of all sorts, some entirely invented or recycled to boost sales.

Sheets like Grand Ball of Calaveras published to commemorate the Day of the Dead on November 2, were hawked at cemeteries.*

*Jose Guadalupe Posada and the Mexican Broadside by Diane Miliotes, Art Institute of Chicago

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José Guadalupe Posada and Manuel Manilla

Manuel Manilla was the first illustrator to make engravings that humanized and caricatured death. In 1882 he started working at the printshop of Antonio Vanegas Arroyo, where he produced around 500 illustrations for broadsides, children books and other publications. He created the first "skulls" and became a major influence to Jose Guadalupe Posada, who became head engraver of the printshop after Manilla retired in 1892.

Arroyo sometimes combined the Calavera illustrations of Posada and Manilla on the same broadside, as can be seen in Esta Es De Don Quijote La Primavera.

This is About Don Quixote the First, the Matchless, the Giant Calavera (Esta es de Don Quijote la primera, la sin par la gigante calavera) after 1891

This is About Don Quixote the First, the Matchless, the Giant Calavera (Esta es de Don Quijote la primera, la sin par la gigante calavera) after 1891

The Death of Don Quixote by Roberto Montenegro

SINCE NO things human are eternal, but rather decline from their beginnings to their ultimate end, especially the lives of men, and since don Quixote had no privilege from heaven to stay its course, his end came when least he expected…

Don Quixote de la Mancha is the classic tale in which Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra used satire and parody to ridicule the contemporary issues of his time and place. The artists of Posada’s time and after use irony and homage in equal portions; the symbolic literate use of Don Quixote combines with a kind of nod to Cervantes creation of epic satire, comedy and tragedy.

On using Don Quixote as a symbol in Latin America:

“Don Quixote” implicitly parodies the knight-conquerors of the New World, the conquistadors, whose flowery rhetoric and chivalrous posturing hardly masked their greed and brutality.

In the Latin American imagination , Don Quixote has functioned both as a symbol of the former colonies’ knotty old-world heritage and as a rebel figure whose absurd behavior pulls the rug out from under the Old World’s affectations and delusions of superiority.*

*The quixotic don by Reed Johnson, Los Angeles Times

Book Illustration 1921

Book Illustration 1921

Diego Rivera

Posada played a pivotal role in the development of Diego Rivera's work. Rivera was inspired by Posada's attention to working-class concerns as well as his expressive artistic technique. Years later, Rivera credited Posada as having been a great influence on his own artwork and direction.*

*http://www.mexonline.com/jose-guadalupe-posada.htm

The Day of the Dead, 1924. Fresco. Ministry of Education, Mexico City

The Day of the Dead, 1924. Fresco. Ministry of Education, Mexico City

In the years after the war, the movies had made murals irrelevant to most Mexicans.

In 1947 in Mexico City, Diego Rivera, after recovering from a struggle with bronchial pneumonia, roused himself one final time to paint a masterpiece. It was called Dream of Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park. Rivera placed himself himself as a boy in the center of a vivid panorama of Mexican history and remembered pleasures. He is a pudgy boy with bulging eyes, holding an umbrella with a vulture’s head, wearing knickers and striped socks and the straw hat of the middle class.

Detail of Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central (Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central) - Diego Rivera Mural Museum - Mexico City - Mexico

Detail of Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central (Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central) - Diego Rivera Mural Museum - Mexico City - Mexico

A grown Frida is behind him, a protective hand on his shoulder. Beside the boy is la calavera Catrina as depicted by Jose Guadalupe Posada. Death gently holds the boy’s hand; her other hand is on the arm of a bowler-hatted Posada.

Also behind young Rivera is Jose Marti, a martyr to Cuban independence. To his right is Carmen Romero Rubio de Diaz, the second wife of the dictator. She is dressed in the high fashion of the 1890s, and is in the company of the dictator’s daughter from his first marriage.*

*Diego Rivera by Pete Hamill

Diego Rivera, Day of the Dead 1944

Diego Rivera, Day of the Dead 1944

Calavera Against Imperialism by Alfredo Zalce

Cover of Calaveras vaciladoras de la guerra (Faltering Skulls of War)

Broadside published in 1939 using calaveras with likeness of Hitler and Franco.

In the interwar era, cities across the Americas became hubs in transnational networks that linked radicals and revolutionaries of all kinds: anarchists, Wobblies, Socialists, Communists, Garveyites, political exiles and vanguard intellectuals. While there were a number of these urban hubs — New York, Tampa, New Orleans and Havana all played a role — the largest by far was Mexico City.*

*Radicals, Revolutionaries and Exiles: Mexico City in the 1920s by Barry Carr

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Contemporary mural of a half-face Catrina in the Mercado de Tlacolula, Oaxaca.

Dia de Muertos celebrates death as a part of the human experience: Every living thing will eventually die. Every human being, no matter how beautiful or well-dressed, will eventually be exposed as nothing more than a skeleton and skull. The half-decorated calacas and calaveras recognize this duality.*

*https://www.nationalgeographic.org/media/dia-de-los-muertos/

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Ester Hernández, One of the Bay Area’s Las Mujeres Muralistas uses a catrina to mock agribusiness. Hernández is a Chicana of Yaqui and Mexican heritage. She was born and raised by farm worker parents in Dinuba, a small town in the central San Joaquin Valley of California. She was influenced by her family's involvement in the Farm Workers Movement and the politically charged atmosphere at the University of California, Berkeley.

One of her most renowned works of art is Sun Mad, a screen print that "speaks of the impact of the overuse of pesticides and the effect they have on the farmworkers, consumers and the environment.*

*Wikipedia

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Posada’s fun loving calavera is alive and well in America in annual city festivals and art walks.

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Monos de calenda (A Bride and Groom)

The mono de calenda is a giant puppet used in the fiestas or calendas in the state of Oaxaca.

All the towns’ patron saints festivities in Oaxaca begin with La Calenda, which traverses the streets of the historic center. This is the way in which the procession announces itself and invites the whole town to the party. Important parts of the calenda are the monos de calenda (puppets) or gigantes (giants). These monos are made of a reed skeleton that is covered by clothing, and a head made with paper maché. These gigantes are carried by young people or children; when the music is played, these characters accompany the dance, spinning, maintaining balance and moving the arms of the giant without stopping, such as a swirl of colors.*

Source: https://pedrocruzpacheco.com

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Scarlet Red from the Cochineal Insect

Cochineal dye was used by the Aztec and Maya peoples of North and Central America. Eleven cities conquered by Montezuma in the 15th century paid a yearly tribute of 2000 decorated cotton blankets and 40 bags of cochineal dye each. Carminic acid is extracted from the female cochineal insects and is treated to produce carmine, which can yield shades of red such as crimson and scarlet.*

The main host for the cochineal insect is the nopal cactus, also known as the prickly pear. As early as the 12th century, the Aztecs domesticated the insect and, through selective breeding, increased the strength of the dye they produced.

When the Spanish conquered modern-day Mexico in 1519 they realized that cochineal’s concentrated color was far superior to the European red dyes of kermes and grain.**

Cochineal dye provided the red in the “Redcoats” of the British soldiers in the Revolutionary War in America and can still be seen in the scarlet red robes of Cardinals in the Catholic Church.

Sources:

*Wikipedia

** Chromatopia, An Illustrated History of Color by David Coles

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Mexican Indian Collecting Cochineal with a Deer Tail by José Antonio de Alzate y Ramírez (1777)

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Europium

The modern dependency of the world on a single region for the color red used in television screens and computer monitors is seen in the reliance on China for the rare earth mineral Europium. Europium is one of the rarest of rare earth elements on Earth and among the least abundant elements in the universe.

Text and Image from Wikipedia

Text and Image from Wikipedia

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Headless Bultos of John the Baptist and San Dionisio (Saint Denis)

Templo de la Virgen de la Asunción y Capilla del Señor, Tlacolula

Santo statues and statuettes, carved in the round, are commonly known as revultos or informally as bultos. They are usually made of wood. Larger scenic pieces, including multiple statues or done in bas relief, or simply painted on wood panels, and which may include non-figural iconography, are called retablos

Among bultos, two distinct types are often noted, the bastidor ('frame', 'structure') style, a mannequin intended to be dressed with clothing and accessories, and the detallado ('detailed') style, with adornments painted on permanently.*

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Bastidor with Ex Voto

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Detallado

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Cristos Negros

The veneration of “Cristos Negros,” literally “black Christs” is to images of Jesus on the cross which are black in color. The spread of Cristo Negro shrines or sanctuaries have mostly been confined to Central America, southern Mexico (especially Chiapas and Oaxaca), with some important images near Mexico City and one in New Mexico.

Cristo Negros or Black Christs of Central America and Mexico trace their origins to the veneration of an image of Christ on a cross located in the Guatemalan town of Esquipulas, near the Honduran and El Salvadoran border. This image was sculpted in 1595 in wood and over time it blackened and gained a reputation for being miraculous.*

*Wikipedia

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Carniceria stalls in the Mercado de Tlacolula

The airplane-hangar space is a surrealistic sight, with clouds of hazy smoke filling the air to create a dreamlike atmosphere, especially in late afternoon when smoke has had time to thicken. People buy meats from two dozen butchers and grill it right there, along with onions and chiles to eat on huge torillas, called clayudas.*

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This specialty meat building (Carniceria) in the Mercado de Tlacolula is considered one of the best Indian (Zapotec) markets in Mexico. Tasajo (beef) and cecina (pork) is sliced very thin, salted and aged.*

*A Cook’s Tour of Mexico by Nancy Zaslavsky

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Chapulines in Oaxaca Cuisine

Mercado de Tlacolula, Oaxaca

After being thoroughly cleaned and washed, they are toasted on a comal (broad flat cookware) with garlic, lime juice and salt containing extract of agave worms, lending a sour-spicy-salty taste to the finished product. Sometimes the grasshoppers are also toasted with chili, although it can be used to cover up for stale chapulines.

Chapulines are eaten in tacos, in moles, and sprinkled as a condiment on fried eggs.

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Woman making Tejate

Mercado de Tlacolula, Oaxaca

Tejate is a drink made from maize and cacao. It remains very popular among the indigenous Mixtec and Zapotec peoples in rural areas of Oaxaca. Principal ingredients include toasted maize, fermented cacao beans, toasted mamey pits (pixtle) and flor de cacao (also known as rosita de cacao). These are finely ground into a paste. The paste is mixed with water, usually by hand, and when it is ready, the flor de cacao rises to the top to form a pasty foam. It is served cold as-is or with some sugar syrup to sweeten it.

text description from Wikipedia

text description from Wikipedia

Mitla in the Valley of Oaxaca

This archeological site is within the modern municipality of San Pablo Villa de Mitla. While Monte Albán was most important as the political center, Mitla was the main religious center. The name Mitla is derived from the Nahuatl name Mictlán, which was the place of the dead or underworld. What makes Mitla unique among Mesoamerican sites is the elaborate and intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs that cover tombs, panels, friezes and even entire walls.

The Church or North Group lies at the entrance to the site. In the 16th century, the Spanish built the Church of San Pablo here, which remains on top of a large pre-Hispanic platform which serves as the church atrium. It was believed that in this group lived the lord and lady of the underworld, so the church was built here to keep the “devil” from escaping.

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To the south of the Church Group is the Columns Group.

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Entrance to the Palace at Mitla.

By Uploaded into English Wikipedia by en:User:Bobak Ha'Eri - English Wikipedia, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=7947681

By Uploaded into English Wikipedia by en:User:Bobak Ha'Eri - English Wikipedia, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=7947681

The main distinguishing feature of Mitla is the intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs that profusely adorn the walls of both the Church and Columns groups. The geometric patterns called grecas in Spanish seen on some of the stone walls and door frames are made from thousands of cut, polished stones that are fitted together without mortar. The pieces were set against a stucco background painted red. The stones are held in place by the weight of the stones that surround them

All textual descriptions and the image of the entrance to the Palace are from Wikipedia>Mitla

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Detail of fretwork on joining walls.

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Mexico meets the Bauhaus

In 1933 Josef and Anni Albers escaped Nazi Germany and settled in North Carolina. From there they made fourteen trips to Mexico documenting pre-Columbian ruins at Monte Alban and Mitla. Albers organized his photos of the geometric designs at Mitla into serial grids.

Albers’ photographs and the paintings they inspired were part of a recent exhibition at the Guggenheim, Josef Albers in Mexico, in 1981.

Josef Albers: Untitled (Mitla, Mexico), 1956

Josef Albers: Untitled (Mitla, Mexico), 1956

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Chapel of the Black Cross of Huatulco

Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán

In colonial times there were many miraculous crosses; the most famous of these was the Cross of Huatulco. In the year 1587, Sir Francis Drake disembarked in Huatulco with his men; the pirates became furious when they found no provisions and attempted to vent their anger on a tall and venerable cross that protected the port. They proceeded to cover it with tar and set it on fire, but the cross suffered no damage whatever; then it was tied with a rope fastened to the English ship’s mast, but the cable parted before it could pull down the cross; then the English decided to chop it to pieces, but their axes turned blunt and could make no mark on it The origin of the Cross of Huatulco is enveloped in legend: Burgoa and Diez de la Calle say that, according to the Chontal Indians of the region, it had been placed there fifteen hundred years before by a holy man, identified as the Apostle Saint Thomas.

Source Text: The Medieval Heritage of Mexico by Luis Weckmann

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Traje de Tehuana & the Guelaguetza

The Traje de Tehuana of the Mexican regional costumes, is one of the most known and admired by the whole world.

The “traje de tehuana” is a complicated ensemble of beribboned or embroidered blouse and skirt (with lace ruffle or flounce), scarf, gold filigree jewelry, hair braided with ribbons and flowers or both, and lace headdress. By the 1920s, the indigenous dress of the Zapotec women of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec had become a symbol of national identity, emblematic of both the diversity and unity of Mexico. Source: https://muse.jhu.edu/article/555955

Oaxacan fibers may be hand spun from cotton or locally cultivated silk.

In this image, a marketplace vendor offers traditional Oaxacan Traje de Tehuana for sale. The vibrant colors of a floral motifs embroidered on a black or white background are expensive and considered highly collectable.

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The Guelaguetza, or Los lunes del cerro (Mondays on the Hill), is an annual indigenous cultural event in Mexico that takes place in the city of Oaxaca, capital of the state of Oaxaca, as well as in nearby villages. ... Each costume (traje) and dance usually has a local indigenous historical and cultural meaning. (Wikipedia)

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The backstrap loom (telar de cintura) originates and characterizes the pre-Hispanic era. It is also known by the name of two bars loom, or backstrap loom. It is a very simple tool that consists of a set of wooden bars, a rope and a belt or to attach the backstrap loom weaver. To provide tension, the top bar is attached to a fixed support and the bottom bar is tied to the waist of the weaver.
One of its main advantages is that it allows the weaver full control over the work you are doing. Small changes in the body can achieve variations in the texture of the fabric. A technical expert weaver be combined in a way that would be difficult or impossible to obtain in a waist loom otherwise. Source: https://vivirmexicohermoso.wordpress.com/2015/11/18/the-mexican-backstrap-loom/

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A visit to the Navarro Gómez Family in Santo Tomás Jalieza, Ocotlán, Oaxaca. Santo Tomás Jalieza is known as the "town of belts" (cinturones) for the attractive embroidered cloth and leather belts that are made here.

Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán

The Church and former monastery of Santo Domingo de Guzmán located on the alcala, the main pedestrian street in Oaxaca. The church and the expansive space in front are the stage for weddings and cultural events of the local schools and community organizations. The grounds contain the church, museum and an ethnobotanical garden.

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Interior of Santo Domingo de Guzmán

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Courtyard in the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

The museum occupies the former monastery. It’s collections encompass the Oaxaca region’s broad history from the arts of the Indian pre-hispanic era to the colonization by Spain and the rise of Roman Catholic iconography .

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This pendent represents Mictllanteuhtli, the 'Lord of Death', recognizable by his fleshless jaws.

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Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

Saint Lucy. Imagenes, or freestanding images of Christ, saints, and the Holy Family, were believed by European missionaries to facilitate devotion and were closely patterned after Spanish models.*

*Polychrome Sculpture in Spanish America, Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History

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Ethnobotanical Gardens, Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

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Monte Albán

Being visible from anywhere in the central part of the Valley of Oaxaca, the impressive ruins of Monte Albán attracted visitors and explorers throughout the colonial and modern eras*

Monte Albán is one of the most significant of Mexico’s pre-Columbian monuments. The main ceremonial, political, and economic center of the pre-Hispanic peoples who lived in the region, it was populated and inhabited for about twelve hundred years.**

**Oaxaca at the Crossroads, Managing Memory, Negotiating Change by Selma Holo

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View of Main Plaza from the North Platform. The South Platform can be seen in the distance.

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One characteristic of Monte Albán is the large number of carved stone monuments one encounters throughout the plaza. The earliest examples are the so-called "Danzantes" (literally, dancers), They represent naked men in contorted and twisted poses, some of them genitally mutilated. The figures are said to represent sacrificial victims, which explains the morbid characteristics of the figures. The Danzantes feature physical traits characteristic of Olmec culture. The 19th century notion that they depict dancers is now largely discredited, and these monuments, dating to the earliest period of occupation at the site (Monte Albán I), are now seen to clearly represent tortured, sacrificed war prisoners, some identified by name, and may depict leaders of competing centers and villages captured by Monte Albán.*

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Oaxaca children dressed for Día de Muertos (38)

Local children dressed in costumes for Día de Muertos and indigenous peoples of southern Mexico standing in front of Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.

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Costume contest at the Zocalo in Oaxaca

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Detail image of costume contest at the Zocalo.

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Hot Chocolate for Día de Muertos (37)

Local bakeries offer samples of egg bread and the bulk chocolate mills like Majordomo make hundreds of cups of hot chocolate on the night before Dia de Muertos.

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In the first decades of the seventeenth century, while hot chocolate was spread and praised throughout the world, the indigenous people of Oaxaca continued to prepare it in their unique ways. For instance, in the second half of the sixteenth century, in Altatlauca and Malinaltepec, the cacao beans were ground with a maize dough, or masa, and drunk from tecomates (a type of gourd), whereas in La Chinantla, the ground gourd of the matey fruit was added to the masa.

Even today, in many indigenous communities of Oaxaca, drinking chocolate signifies the honoring of life, being at one with family, neighbors, the community, and, above all, with God, the patron saints of the church, and the dead.*

Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy (The William and Bettye Nowlin Series in Art, History, and Culture of the Western Hemisphere) by Diana Kennedy

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Chocolate Mayordomo

Specific recipes for bulk chocolate used in moles are handled by the businesses in town that can produce the quantities needed for extended family gatherings during Dia de Muertos. Oaxaca is famous for its seven moles. Variations in the amount of almonds, spices and chapulines (grasshoppers) used in chocolate recipes are specific to family traditions.

*The roasted beans, now a rich brown, are shelled and moved to the grinder—and here the final miracle happens, for what comes out of the grinder is not a powder, but a warm liquid, for the friction liquifies the cocoa butter, producing a rich chocolate liquor.

Attractive though it looks and smells, this liquor is scarcely drinkable, being intensely bitter. The Maya made a somewhat different version—their choco haa (bitter water) was a thick, cold, bitter liquid, for sugar was unknown to them—fortified with spices, cornmeal and sometimes chili. The Aztec, who called it cacahuatl, considered it to be the most nourishing and fortifying of drinks, one reserved for nobles and kings. They saw it as a food for the gods, and believed that the cocoa tree originally grew only in Paradise, but was stolen and brought to mankind by their god Quetzalcoatl, who descended from heaven on a beam of the morning star, carrying a cacao tree.*

*Oaxaca Journal by Oliver Sacks

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Chocolate is the prime ingredient in Mole Negro Oaxaqueña Other ingredients include: various chiles, sesame seeds, peanuts, almonds, walnuts, pecans, raisins and plantains.

Every year families in Oaxaca get together before Dia de Muertos to make the most celebrated dish of all—Mole Negro Oaxaqueña. A dish of mole is placed on the family altar to entice the departed loved ones to come back and join in the celebration. Days before the actual event, women’s hands are busy cleaning chiles, cracking nuts, peeling cacao beans, and gathering herbs to make up the twenty-odd ingredients used in this fascinating concoction. For big fiestas, you need enough mole to serve the whole village, so the process can take days.*

*Seasons of My Heart, A Culinary Journey Through Oaxaca, Mexico by Susan Trilling

Image source: Instituto Cultural Oaxaca

Image source: Instituto Cultural Oaxaca

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Bread and Chocolate in Oaxaca for Día de Muertos (36)

Degustación de pan y chocolate tradicional on October 31, 2017

Samples of local sweet egg bread and chocolate are offered at this event. Bread is purchased for family ofrendas to feed the difuntos (departed souls).

Pan de Yema and Pan de Muerto

Pan de Yema, Yema is Spanish for egg yolk. Pan de Yema is bread that does not have the marzipan head, and the living can eat it. If it has the head, it is Pan de Muerto and both the living and the dead can eat it.

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Using bread as an offering for the souls is a Spanish tradition, the Spaniards used to take bread and wine to the cemeteries or churches on All Souls Day as an offering for their dead family members to let them know they remembered them and to ask them for their protection.*

*www.mexican-folk-art-guide.com

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Pan de Muertos with a cabecita (painted head made from marzipan), and decorated with seeds, sugar and colored icing The panaderías (bakeries) from the city of Oaxaca display their creative variations of this traditional egg bread at the inaugural event of the urban celebration of Día de Muertos.

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A grave is washed and the dirt sculpted and decorated with flowers (34)

Some communities hold competitions for the most beautiful grave plot. Families spend the day using trowels to sculpt the dirt mound and later adorn it with flowers in unusual patterns and designs.

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The Pantheon General and many of the other older city cemeteries no longer have space for new graves. Families can usually overcome this constraint by burying their dead in plots already occupied by other relatives. Officially, cemeteries allow this practice only if at least seven years have passed since the burial of the previous difunto. In such circumstances, the grave is reopened; the bones of the last difunto, once exhumed, are disposed of or placed in a new casket; and the grave is covered once more.*

*Days of Death, Days of Life by Kristin Norget, Columbia University Press, 2006

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